Pam Bennett, Barb Bloetscher, Joe Boggs, Jim Chatfield, Erik Draper, David Dyke, Gary Gao, Dave Goerig, Tim Malinich, Amy Stone, and Curtis Young.
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April 19, 2007
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This is the Third 2007 edition of the Buckeye Yard and Garden Line (BYGL).
BYGL is developed from a Tuesday morning conference call of Extension
agents, specialists and other contributors in Ohio.
BYGL is also made available on the Internet from the Ohio State University
Horticulture and Crop Science (HCS) in Virtual Perspective website
(http://bygl.osu.edu). Additional fact sheet information on any of
these articles may be found through the OSU fact sheet database (http://plantfacts.osu.edu).
BYGL is a service of OSU Extension and is aided by major support
from the Ohio Nursery and Landscape Association (ONLA), with additional
funding from the Ohio Chapter of the International Society of Arboriculture
(ISA) to the OSU Extension Nursery Landscape, and Turf Team (ENLTT).
Participants in the April 17, 2007 conference included: Carolyn Allen (Clark); Pam Bennett (Clark); Barb Bloetscher (Entomology/C. Wayne Ellett Plant and Pest Diagnostic Clinic (CWEPPD Clinic)); Joe Boggs (OSU Extension Center at Piketon/Hamilton-Clermont); Jim Chatfield (OSU Extension Center at Wooster/Hort and Crop Science); Erik Draper (Geauga); Dave Dyke (Hamilton); Denise Ellsworth (Summit); Gary Gao (Delaware); David Goerig (Mahoning); Michael Loos (Cuyahoga); Tim Malinich (Lorain); Joe Rimelspach (Plant Pathology); Dave Shetlar (Entomology); Amy Stone (Lucas); Nancy Taylor (CWEPPD Clinic); Curtis Young (Allen); and Randy Zondag (Lake). .
Additional factsheet information on any of these articles may be found
through the OSU Factsheet Database (http://plantfacts.ohio-state.edu/)
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WEATHER WATCH
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The updated OARDC Weather Station website is up and running with a new look to the site. The following weather information has been summarized from data collected from April 1 - April 19, 2007. The weather station information is not being collected from the Miami site and therefore has been dropped from the weekly summary. Additionally, we have added the Piketon site.
| Weather Station |
Region of Ohio |
Ave. High Temp F |
Ave. Low Temp F |
Total Precip " |
Normal Precip " |
| Ashtabula |
NE |
44.8 |
30.9 |
NA |
2.00" |
| Wooster |
NE |
49.3 |
32.5 |
0.96" |
2.00" |
| Hoytville |
NW |
51.8 |
31.8 |
0.24" |
1.90" |
| Delaware |
Central |
51.3 |
33.3 |
0.41" |
2.30" |
| Piketon |
South |
54.9 |
36.0 |
1.95" |
1.80" |
| Jackson |
South |
54.4 |
35.0 |
2.82" |
2.40" |
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Dave Goerig reported Mahoning county experienced wind gusts of nearly 50 mph on Monday, April 16. The storm lasted throughout the day and into the evening uprooting trees and producing numerous dead branch falls in the area. Northeastern Ohio was on the western edge of the nor'easter storm that hit the Atlantic states this past week.
For a link to the OARDC Weather Stations, check out: http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/centernet/weather.htm
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HORT SHORTS
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GDD (GROWING DEGREE DAYS)
GDD is a measure of the daily maximum and minimum temperature and directly relates to growth and development of plants and insects. The GDD of any zip code location in Ohio is estimated using the GDD of ten OARDC weather stations and available on the web at the site below.
The range of GDD accumulations in Ohio from north to south is 112 to 266. Following is a report of GDD for several locations around Ohio as of April 18, 2007: Painesville, 112; Cleveland, 119; Toledo, 124; Youngstown, 128; Lima, 158; Wooster, 158; Coshocton, 182; Columbus, 210; Springfield, 219; Dayton, 224; Cincinnati, 253 ; Ironton, 270; Portsmouth, 270; and Piketon, 266.
To put these GDD accumulations into perspective, the following is an abbreviated listing of plant and insect species with their respective phenological event and average GDD accumulations at which these events occur. Due to variations in weather, temperature, humidity, etc., these events may occur a few days earlier or later than predicted by the average GDD. By looking at a city, town, or village near you from the above list, or visiting the above web site, you can see what could be taking place in the landscape around you.
Norway maple, first bloom, 116; border forsythia, full bloom, 116; chanticleer callery pear, first bloom, 123; sargent cherry, first bloom, 127; larch casebearer, egg hatch, 128; saucer magnolia, first bloom, 133; bradford callery pear, first bloom, 142; European pine sawfly, egg hatch, 144; weeping Higan cherry, first bloom, 145; P.J.M. rhododendron, first bloom, 147; Chanticleer callery pear, full bloom, 149; Norway maple, full bloom, 149; inkberry leafminer, adult emergence, 150; Sargent cherry, full bloom, 151; star magnolia, full bloom, 151; Allegheny serviceberry, first bloom, 153; Manchu cherry, full bloom, 155; Spring Snow crabapple, first bloom, 155; Apple serviceberry, first bloom, 159; Weeping Higan cherry, full bloom, 179; Koreanspice viburnum, first bloom, 185; Regent serviceberry, first bloom, 186; Japanese flowering crabapple, first bloom, 189; Eastern redbud, first bloom, 191; gypsy moth, egg hatch, 192; Koreanspice viburnum, full bloom, 205; azalea lace bug, egg hatch, 206; 'Spring Snow' crabapple, full bloom, 209; common flowering quince, full bloom, 214; birch leafminer, adult emergence, 215; 'Coralburst' crabapple, first bloom, 217; elm leafminer, adult emergence, 219; common chokecherry, full bloom, 221; alder leafminer, adult emergence, 224; honeylocust plant bug, egg hatch, 230; common lilac, first bloom, 234; Ohio buckeye, first bloom, 245; eastern redbud, full bloom, 245; common horse chestnut, first bloom, 251; hawthorn lace bug, adult emergence, 253; hawthorn leafminer, adult emergence, 260; flowering dogwood, first bloom, 263; red buckeye, first bloom, 265; and Carolina silverbell, 266.
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PLANTS OF THE WEEK
Read all about perennials and landscape trees and shrubs in the ONLA publications "Perennial Plants for Ohio" and "Landscape Plants for Ohio." The descriptions and photographs of plants were provided for these publications by the OSU ENLT Team along with other industry plant lovers. These full-color publications are available at http://Buckeyegardening.com for $5.00. Click on "garden store" and then "ONLA plant guides." ONLA members can purchase these in quantities at a reduced price at http://onla.org .
* PERENNIAL PLANT OF THE WEEK: VIRGINIA BLUEBELLS (Mertensia virginica). This native wildflower is just past the peak bloom period in the central Ohio area. The pink buds open to purple-blue trumpet-shaped blossoms that are held in nodding clusters at the top of the plant. Plants do best in cool shade and moist soil, high in organic matter. It is an excellent plant for the woodland garden. Do not transplant Virginia bluebells from their native habitats in woodland areas! Check out garden centers that carry native plants or mail order for best transplanting results.
* WOODY PLANT OF THE WEEK: FLOWERING DOGWOOD (Cornus florida). All dogwoods flower of course, but our showiest dogwood is rewarded with the common name of "flowering dogwood." It is a marvelous spectacle blooming with the redbuds as an understory tree in woodlands throughout the state, especially in southeast Ohio, and is an excellent landscape plant if sited properly. Following is the description from "Landscape Plants for Ohio."
"Highly popular small (15-20') tree prized for its many ornamental features. Multi-season appeal with spectacular white or pink bracts that emerge before leaves are out, attractive dark-green leaves, purple-red fall color, shiny red fruits, and graceful horizontal growth habit. There are numerous excellent cultivars. Plant in partial shade and mulch to protect from hot soil conditions."
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THE CHILLIN' REPORT
BYGLers continue to lament about the amount of plant damage from the recent freezing temperatures. However, the lamentation level depends upon the location of the lamenter! Randy Zondag was amazed at the amount of damage in the Columbus area upon a recent visit. Plants in the northern portion of the state weren't as far along phenologically and might have escaped some of the damage. Following is a compilation of observations of plant damage.
Pam Bennett's lamentation level is quite high. Upon close inspection of the Gateway Learning Gardens at the Clark County Extension office, she noted that almost everything exhibited some degree of damage. Those plants that did not suffer include pines, spruces, and ash trees that have not leafed out yet. Perennials were hit extremely hard. Almost all species of perennials in the garden will have to be cut back or pruned to remove damage. Many of the shrubs in the phenology garden had leafed out anywhere from 1/8" to 1" and all had some degree of leaf damage. Forsythia 'Gold Tide' experienced complete leaf kill and flower bud kill (blooms were expanding at the time of the freeze). Other shrubs include spiraea, viburnum, lilac, burning bush, redosier dogwood, and ninebark. Redbud and pawpaw blooms were just beginning to swell and were completely killed.
Joe Boggs reported that ornamental pears festooned with blackened leaves continue to make the trees look hideous in the Cincinnati area. Saucer magnolias and redbuds sport fried flowers and foliage. Unfortunately, the freeze had little impact on maple samaras; there are plenty left to plague landscapers and gardeners later this spring. On a more positive note, Joe reported that recent sunny days and warmer temperatures are favoring a general recovery from the deep freeze. Many types of crabapples are now in glorious bloom, with little apparent damage.
Although the 3' of snow experienced in Geauga county has finally melted, it was probably a blessing in disguise for many plants and their newly emerging buds. It appears as if the snow actually insulated the buds on many plants from freeze damage caused by the temperatures in the lower 20's during the 4-day snowstorm. Exposed forsythia blooms were turned a mustard brown by the cold temperatures, yet days later, during the great meltdown, new bright yellow blooms were very noticeable. Unfortunately, there was a hard frost on the 15th of April, which again turned the remaining blooms from sunny yellow to mustard brown. It is still too early to determine the overall effect of the low temperatures on swollen plant buds in this area due to persistent cool temperatures in the mid-30's and the resultant slow accumulation of growing degree day units.
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PAY ATTENTION TO PERENNIALS
In some areas of the state, perennials took quite a beating from the recent freezing temperatures. In the central and southern portion of the state, perennials had begun to send new growth, which was quite lush with the warm temperatures prior to the freeze. Take a close look at the foliage and evaluate the extent of the damage. In some cases, minor pruning is all that is needed. However, if the entire plant was damaged, it should be cut back to the ground now in order to encourage new growth. Patience may also be necessary; as temperatures warm up and plants resume growth, the extent of the damage will be more apparent.
Remove the dead foliage from the plant now. As spring continues, cool, damp temperatures and dead foliage are perfect conditions for botrytis or gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) to develop. Some perennials will pose a bit of a challenge due to their growth habits. Hosta for instance, unfurls the leaf as it emerges. If you cut the leaf in half, the plant is going to look a bit funny. In addition, the surface of the leaf where the cut was made will eventually dry out and turn brown. Therefore, with hosta, wait until the new growth completely emerges and then cut back any damaged foliage. Daylilies and iris present a similar challenge. It will be interesting to see how iris perform after this recent freeze damaged all of the visible foliage.
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DON'T GUESS - SOIL TEST
BYGLers received phone calls about adjusting soil pH and fertilizing plants in both the garden and landscape. It is always a good idea to have your soil tested for pH, buffer pH/lime index, and nutrient levels. Soil test should be done every 2-3 years, especially when plants have not responded well to fertilization. Follow this link http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1132.html for a list of soil-testing labs and sampling techniques. This is not a complete list; there are additional reputable soil testing labs. Follow this link http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1133.html for guidelines on how to choose a soil-testing lab.
A soil test report provides specific fertilizer recommendations, in addition to lime or sulfur recommendations, if necessary. A soil test is definitely money well spent since a fertilizer with incorrect analysis, or a fertilizer applied at wrong rate can do more harm than good. Soil testing definitely makes a lot of $ense!
 
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MOLE CONTROL
It is once again that time of the year when folks get out and about on their lawn and start to notice that numerous ridges and holes are marring their lawns. These landscape disfigurations are likely caused by those nefarious little critters known as moles.
Homeowners are often confused with the conflicting advice on mole control. A common example is when homeowners try to control lawn grubs and insects to reduce mole activity. However, this is often unsuccessful because the mole's primary food source is earthworms. In fact, many chemicals and home remedies (including castor oil derivatives and grub controls) are not only ineffective when dealing with moles, but they allow the animals time to establish and become real problems. Moles can quickly colonize and spread through adjacent residential properties if not handled properly. Because they need a well-established tunnel network to survive, control is more difficult the longer they are allowed to tunnel and become habituated.
Trapping is often viewed as the most effective and practical method of mole control. In general, trapping success is greatest in the spring and fall, especially after rain. In the summer and winter, moles are active in deep soil and more difficult to locate. Three types of mole traps are especially effective: harpoon, scissor-jaw, and choker loop. To ensure safe and humane deployment, be sure to follow printed instructions.
In March of 2006, Dave Shetlar reported in his P.E.S.T. Newsletter (20 March 2006, Vol. 15, No. 1) that Talpirid Bait, in the form of a gummy worm, was effective for mole control but that he was concerned about the toxicity of the active ingredient since the LD50 of the active ingredient is 4.7 mg/kg for dogs and even less for cats and pigs, which is quite hot. He further said that, "fortunately, the bait worms have only 0.025% active ingredient and are supposedly distasteful to other animals."
Dave currently reported: "I still dont have any replicated field trials using Talpirid. Some of the mole trappers are still sticking to their guns that trapping is the ONLY sure way to get rid of moles. However, Dr. Tim Gibb, turfgrass entomologists at Purdue, has openly stated that he has used the bait numerous times and the bait is readily taken by moles (remember that most other baits and stuff like chewing gum are not picked up by the moles, but shoved aside and buried) and he is assuming that they are likely killed if they eat it. In one instance, he knows that the moles in an area that he treated disappeared within a couple of weeks. This bait is also available to homeowners, but under a different name. I highly recommend that the bait be used with caution since it looks like a gummy worm and I suspect that a couple of them ingested by a small child could be pretty dangerous!"
For further information on mole control, please refer to OSUE FactSheet W-11-2002, "Effective Mole Control" (http://ohioline.osu.edu/w-fact/0011.html).
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AVOIDING THE MISTAKES YOUR NEIGHBOR MADE
The calls have already begun regarding termite control companies trying to scare homeowners into possible unnecessary treatments leading to improper or unsatisfactory pest control. To help select a reputable company, fact sheets are available to prepare the individual interview prospective companies, so that they will be in "good hands" with the selected company.
The most important step for the individual is to check the company's certification and the local BBB. Knowing the jargon of the profession is helpful, so that the individual can explain what he wants, and understand what the professional intends to do. Ask the company for references to get others' opinions and ask questions! It is better to ask "too many" questions before the company begins, than to discover a problem afterwards. Make sure to have the company's full name, address and phone number in case a problem occurs.
OSU Extension Home Yard and Garden FactSheet, "Termites, Selecting a Reliable Pest Management Company" is available at your local Extension office and online at http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2091.html . Additionally, a pamphlet is available through OSU Extension Entomology entitled, "Choosing a Pest Control Company" for more general advice.
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BUG BYTES
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TIME FOR TICKS!
Ticks have already shown up in Extension offices in northern Ohio, indicating that enough growing degree days have transpired for the eggs to hatch. The primary ticks encountered by Ohioans and their pets, are the AMERICAN DOG TICK (Dermacenter variabilis) and the BROWN DOG TICK (Rhipcephalus sanguineus). Another tick which has been found the last 10 years is the LONE STAR TICK (Amblyomma americanus). Of the three, the American dog tick is encountered the most often.
Although the American dog tick prefers living outdoors, the brown dog tick likes the warm, dry atmosphere indoors. The engorged brown dog tick female crawls up the walls indoors and lays tiny brown eggs in cracks and crevices. Once the eggs hatch, the seed ticks, or larvae, attach themselves to any warm body that passes. Initially, they are found in groups, but as they look for a host, they migrate throughout the building. If found early enough, the larvae can be treated before they disperse. Two generations usually occur in Ohio. Brown dog ticks can be pests in kennels and areas where pets sleep.
To avoid picking up ticks outdoors, keep the lawn mowed and stay on paths when walking in wild areas. Tuck pants inside sock and/or boots and keep shirts tucked in as well, because ticks crawl upward. Wear tick repellents when working in woodsy places, and treat dogs with appropriate repellents labeled for their size.
In most cases, these ticks do not vector diseases, but if an engorged tick is found attached to a persons skin, it should be pulled slowly and carefully away so that the mouthparts that are embedded under the skin are removed instead of being broken off. The best way to remove the tick is to use a pair of forceps and pull steadily. Wash the area with soap and water immediately after removing it. If you must remove the tick by hand, make sure to wash your hands and the area where the tick was attached. Keep the tick alive for 3 weeks. If the person shows no symptoms, the tick can be terminated. If the tick was not engorged it, it was not attached long enough to transmit a disease, even if it was vectoring one. The other option is to send the tick, alive, in a small bottle to the CWEPPD Clinic, or the Ohio Department of Health, Division of Vector Borne Disease.
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MAJOR BOXWOOD MINERS
Dave Shetlar and Joe Boggs noted that BOXWOOD LEAFMINERS (Monarthropalpus flavus) have pupated in central and southwest Ohio, respectively. Dave reported observing heavy infestations in his part of the state and from a distance; the yellowish-orange leaf damage could be mistaken for frost/freeze injury. Of course, a close examination revealed the affected leaves were riddled with blister-like leaf mines. The boxwood leafminer is a non-native midge fly that was accidentally introduced into North America from Europe.
Adult leafminers superficially resemble miniature mosquitoes; however, they have bright orange abdomens. Winter is spent as 3rd instar larvae (maggots) inside blister mines. In the spring, the larvae resume feeding and they develop through a 4th instar stage. During this time, mines expand rapidly, and damage becomes evident. Pupation typically occurs by mid-April. Adults emerge from late April through early May to initiate the next generation by mating and laying eggs. The adults insert their eggs between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Larvae hatching from these eggs feed and grow into the 3rd instar overwintering stage.
Dave noted that there are two control options for this leafminer involving soil drench applications of imidacloprid (e.g. Merit). An application this spring when new leaves are around 1/4" long will prevent damage during the upcoming season by killing 1st instar larvae. An application of imidacloprid made in October will kill the 3rd and 4th instar larvae next spring. The fall application does not prevent damage from 1st and 2nd instar leafminer larvae. However, it will carry the added benefit of controlling BOXWOOD PSYLLID (Psylla buxi) before these aphid relatives produce their characteristic leaf-cupping damage. Dave indicated that nursery managers can control the leafminer this spring by making foliar applications of thiamethoxam (e.g. Flagship). Dave cautioned that a non-ionic surfactant should be used to enhance foliar coverage.
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WINDSHIELD WIPES
BYGLers also ran into a few other insects and mites this week, including:
* Joe Boggs reported that the spring freeze appears to have had little effect on EASTERN TENT CATERPILLARS (Malacosoma disstria) as they are continuing to expand their silk nests in branch forks of crabapples and cherries in southwest Ohio. These two favored hosts were not seriously damaged by the freeze in his part of the state. He noted that FOREST TENT CATERPILLARS (M. americanum) appeared to be struggling on oaks with leaves damaged by the freeze. However, he observed plenty of colonies happily feeding on undamaged oaks, or on maples and other hosts that were relatively untouched by the freeze.
* Pam Bennett reported that the droopy leaves caused by the depredations of the BUCKEYE PETIOLE BORER (Proteoteras aesculuana) are now appearing on buckeye trees in southwest Ohio. Larvae of this tiny moth bore into leaf petioles causing new leaves to droop, shrivel, and turn dark green to black. Symptoms may superficially resemble frost or freeze damage. Look for a slight swelling and a small hole in the petioles of affected leaves. Small quantities of sawdust-like frass may hang from the hole. Damage may appear conspicuous; however, the insect seldom causes significant leaf loss, so no chemical control recommendations are currently available. Hand-picking and destroying infested leaves now will reduce the number of moths available for producing a second generation.
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DISEASE DIGEST
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THE POWER OF THE (DISEASE) TRIANGLE: PART II
In last week's BYGL the HOST PLANT COMPONENT of the disease triangle was discussed. This week, it is the PATHOGEN COMPONENT of the triangle.
There is a great quote over a century ago from the Russian plant pathologist Antonin Woronin, who declared: "The only cure for cabbage hernia is fire!" Until recently cabbage was generally not considered an ornamental plant, but Woronin's point still applies to the green industry. He was talking about a disease now known as club root of cabbage, caused by a primitive organism known as Plasmodiophora brassicae. His point was that they had no cabbages with good genetic resistance to "cabbage hernia" and no pesticides to control it, and no way to seriously modify the environment conducive to disease. However, they could control it with sanitation. They could get rid of the pathogen in this case, by burning the infested fields after harvesting whatever they could each year. By burning the remaining herniated cabbage debris they were reducing the amount of P. brassicae inoculum that overwintered to the next year.
Sanitation should occur when dealing with ornamental disease, both during and after a disease outbreak. Rose black spot is a good example. Each spring when black spot susceptible roses leaf out they are exposed to infections by the D. rosae. Where does the fungus come from? The fungus comes from spores that survived the winter on old black spotted leaves and canes. One cannot prevent spores from blowing in from other areas but one can greatly lessen the amount of fungal inoculum and the amount of black spot disease by cleaning up infested debris from the previous year. In addition, it is also important to clean up the black spotted leaves that develop during the current season's infections; do not wait until the end of the year to clean up the planting. While this sanitation effort is not perfect, it helps.
Of course, the other way to preventively manage D. rosae is to spray labeled fungicides on foliage as it emerges and develops in order to kill the fungus as the microscopic spores are germinating and trying to enter wet leaf tissue. This effort is also imperfect, as timing and complete coverage are always challenging. By combining sanitation and fungicides to control the pathogen, using at least some black spot resistant rose varieties, and modifying the environment that will be discussed next week, one can provide good integrated rose black spot control. All too often only one facet of the triangle - (e.g.) use of fungicides - is employed and control is inadequate.
Another example of sanitation to help control the pathogen is with hollyhock rust disease (Puccinia malvacearum). The orange, turning to brick red and chocolate brown, rust pustules are a common sight for almost everyone who has ever grown hollyhocks. This fungus, like the rose black spot fungus, has a repeating cycle that just goes on and on. As the season progresses, removing infested leaves during and after the season is one big key to getting the disease under control. Otherwise, it just gets worse. Fungicides help but must be applied multiple times and will not be enough without the help of removing pathogen inoculum when infestations do occur. A further issue with hollyhock rust is another aspect of sanitation, the removal of additional hosts of P. malvacearum. It turns out that this fungus also infects a number of hollyhock's relatives in the Malvaceae family, including weeds such as the round-leaved mallow, Malva rotundifolia.
Sometimes plant diseases become issues only once pathogens arrive in an area; Dutch elm disease (Ophiostoma ulmi) is a classic example. American elm (Ulmus Americana) and other elms native to the United States are highly susceptible to infection by O. ulmi. The environment conducive to disease is present. The missing ingredient until the 1920's was that the pathogen was not present in the U.S. Then in the late 1920's elm logs were imported to the U.S. and transported across the country in open, flat-bed railway cars. These European elm logs were infested with European elm bark beetles which in turn carried O. ulmi. The beetles hopped off, fed on American elms and vectored the pathogen to these highly susceptible elms.
The result was an epiphytotic event that continues to this day. The disease triangle was completed by the introduction of the pathogen to the U.S. Continued control efforts range from looking for genetic resistance in elms, sanitation in communities where the disease has not already swept through, including removal of any infested wood where bark beetles survive, and use of fungicides, and insecticides for the bark beetle vectors.
Without question, sanitation is often not enough to prevent key diseases. Sometimes it is a matter of practical marshaling of resources Though cleaning up a rose planting of black-spotted rose tissue or a hollyhocks of leaves and stems with rust may be possible, cleaning up all the scabby leaves from crabapples or an apple orchard is too time consuming. Fungicides, in conjunction with the other facets of the triangle, are clearly one important approach. Proper selection of the right fungicide, applied with appropriate timing to prevent infection, and application in the right way to obtain good coverage and limit off-target application are all keys to proper fungicide use.
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TURF TIPS
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YELLOW AREAS IN LAWNS
Joe Rimelspach commented that he has observed yellow areas or spots in lawns; he attributed these yellow areas to the recent cold temperatures. Various factors might have led to this occurrence. Turfgrass that was pushed with a lot of nitrogen and was growing rather lush, and then cut just before the cold, suffered cold damage. In other places, the lawns were cut too short (more than 1/3 of the grass blade was removed) just prior to the cold; yellow areas showed up shortly afterward. Joe Boggs observed these yellow areas in Cincinnati lawns and noted that they are now almost greened up again, once growth resumed. Pam Bennett observed the same in Clark County, however, they are only beginning to green up slightly. Joe Rimelspach noted that turf type tall fescues seemed to be hit hardest and Dave Shetlar noted that he also observed Kentucky bluegrass lawns with the same type of damage. Joe felt confident that most of these areas would grow out of it eventually.
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INDUSTRY INSIGHT
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DUBIOUS SAMPLES GIVE DUBIOUS RESULTS
Nancy Taylor, director of the CWEPPD Clinic, reminded BYGLer's to think big when examining or submitting plant samples. Nancy reminded us that at this time of year many plant problems are quickly lumped together and erroneously attributed to "winter kill." Of the many brown, dead twig samples that have come into the CWEPPD Clinic, few, if any are useful to assist in the correct diagnosis of plant problems. The main reason for this lack of definitive answers is typically due to the wrong portion of the brown, dead branch being submitted. To help with a positive identification of diseases or problems, the branch or sample must contain the all important section called the transition zone.
The transition zone is the area of the sample where the obvious dead, brown tissue transitions back to apparently healthy tissue. It is in this area where pathogens infecting healthy tissue can be isolated and identified. The old, brown, dead stuff is contaminated by other fungi called saphrophites, which break down organic matter, and often confuse the true disease issues. In fact, Nancy stated that she believes many of the plant dieback problems are in reality a symptom of compromised root systems. The only way to truly determine the problem is to look at the roots - but of course, all of this is hard to determine if the only sample sent in was a dead twig! Bigger is better when taking plant samples and while the transition zone is extremely important for successful disease identification, the entire plant, roots and all, is best to accurately diagnose plant problems.
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COMING ATTRACTIONS
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EAB REGULATIONS FOR THE FORESTRY INDUSTRY.
Sawmill owners, loggers, mulch manufacturers, pallet makers, foresters, firewood dealers and other representatives of the green and timber industries - mark the calendars for Monday, April 23rd, for an informational session about emerald ash borer (EAB) quarantines and how they might impact operations.
Two identical sessions, free of charge, will be held from 2:00-4:00 p.m. and 5:00-7:00 p.m. at Keim Lumber Co., 4465 St. Rt. 557, Charm, Ohio. Charm is located southeast of Millersburg in Holmes County, between Walnut Creek and New Bedford. For additional information, call 888-OHIO-EAB.
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BYGLOSOPHY
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"We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children." ~Native American Proverb
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