A lawn is an open area covered with grass that is kept mowed. Most landscapes include a lawn. An attractive lawn is expected in many communities. Lawns provide safe playing surfaces for children and sports activities. They also function as a contrast to gardens, trees and shrubs. Caring for a lawn is much like raising children: methods of care vary widely. The results of this care vary, too. Even if people use a lawn care service, they still harbor ideas and opinions on levels of maintenance and products used. Master Gardeners must clarify lawn care techniques and dispel many myths that have evolved. This chapter examines turfgrasses and how they react to soil, fertilization, irrigation, mowing and seasonal changes. Most turfgrass problems arise because of deficiencies or excesses in the plants' environment. It is critical to identify and
remedy problems so they do not become chronic, threatening
the appearance and health of the lawn. |
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KEY CONCEPTS I. Lawn Care A. Mowing1. Mower types Return to Introduction |
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LAWN CARE Some people think that they must be slaves to the green expanse they call a lawn. Others are convinced that it takes professional expertise to maintain a quality lawn. Some people believe that lawns are toxic, environmental disasters. However, lawns capture runoff, control erosion of soil, reduce glare and filter pollutants from the air. Gardeners can maintain an attractive, environmentally sound lawn with a reasonable commitment of time and energy. The level of care a lawn is given is determined by several factors. The use of the area will affect turfgrass selection and cultural requirements. BENTGRASS is a high-maintenance grass used on golf course putting greens. TALL FESCUES are used in playgrounds and parks because they tolerate heavy use, soil compaction and drought conditions much better than finer types of grasses. Grasses grown in the home landscape can require less maintenance if proper mowing, watering, and fertilization practices are followed. Grass cultivars for home landscape lawns are usually moderate-to-high maintenance types. Grass varieties for Ohio are called "cool-season" grasses. They look their best and grow most rapidly during the cool weather of spring and fall. Common cool-season turfgrasses include KENTUCKY BLUEGRASSES, tall and FINE FESCUES and PERENNIAL RYEGRASSES. Mowing frequency is highest during the cool weather of spring and fall. The "once-a-week-no-matter-what" mowing schedule may result in a lawn mower clogged with clippings during these times. During the heat of summer, growth is greatly reduced. If drought conditions occur, mowing may not be required. While drought reduces mowing frequency, it may drastically alter the appearance of the lawn. During summer months when rains are scarce and temperatures soar, turfgrasses slow their growth and even may go dormant. As with other plants, grasses need to be fertilized more during periods of rapid growth. For Ohio, this means fall and spring are the critical times to fertilize. Plants do not need large doses of fertilizer when they are dormant or growing slowly.
Mowing is the most time-consuming operation in lawn care. Mowing removes a portion of the plant leaf. The cycle of cutting and regrowth produces beautiful lawns when mowing is done at the proper height and frequency. Proper mowing removes no more than 1/3 of the total length of the leaf blade. The recommended mowing height for most lawn grasses in Ohio is 2 to 3 inches. The recommended cutting height varies with the species of grass. It is advisable to cut the lawn higher as temperature increases and lower as temperature drops. Research demonstrates the following advantages of lawns cut at 3 inches: ! Grass is more vigorous because of increased leaf surface for photosynthesis. ! Roots are deeper, more drought resistant. ! The crown of the plant is kept cooler due to the shade from the longer blades. ! Soil and roots are shaded, decreasing water needs and reducing weed-seed germination due to reduced light. ! Lush growth crowds out weeds. ! Soil temperatures are cooler. When lawns are mowed too short, the following occurs: ! the photosynthetic capacity is reduced; ! sunlight reaches the soil surface increasing loss of soil moisture and increasing weed seed germination; ! the soil dries more quickly; ! the crown of the plant may dehydrate, causing it to brown and die. In general, cutting the grass too short results in reduced vigor and fewer roots. Frequent mowing is best. Too much of the foliage is removed at one time when mowing is infrequent. The grass plants are stressed by having more than 1/3 of the leaf surface removed in a single mowing. The plant cannot produce and store adequate food. Instead, it must devote stored energy to regrowth of lost leaf surface. There is no hard-and-fast rule for the number of days between mowings. Instead, gardeners must observe weather and seasonal conditions, as well as the height of the turfgrass to determine when to mow. Avoid mowing when turfgrass is wet. Mowing wet grass causes clippings to come out of the mower in clumps. Clumps of grass left on the lawn are unsightly and can damage the grass under them. However, do not allow turf to become so high that mowing removes more than 1/3 of the leaf blade. It is better to mow when the lawn is wet than to let the grass grow too tall. If the grass does grow taller, raise the blade so that no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade is removed.
Ohioans are encouraged to let grass clippings remain on the lawn, rather than bagging them to be sent to landfills. Mulching mowers are becoming more popular because legislation in Ohio prohibits yard wastes from going into landfills. Mulching mowers finely chop leaf clippings. The clippings then fall onto the turf and out of sight. Most people use ROTARY mowers and most rotary mowers can be adapted to mulch the clippings with the addition of a special blade and a plate blocking the discharge chute. Although the results with an adapted mower are not as good as with a mulching mower, they are adequate, if the lawn is mowed when needed. REEL mowers are also available, but are more expensive and more difficult to adjust. Many lawn care professionals use reel mowers. They cut cleaner, causing less turf damage. They mow an uneven lawn without scalping. Reel mowers cannot be adapted for mulching. However, more frequent mowing and removing less leaf surface produces the same results as a mulching mower.
The mowing pattern is the direction a lawn is mowed. It should be varied. Mowing in the same pattern time after time causes soil compaction and wear patterns. A varied mowing pattern also can prevent continuous scalping of high spots and uneven mowing where sharp turns occur. Grass clippings return a valuable source of nutrients back to the soil. Research shows that up to 1/4 of a lawn's nitrogen requirements can be provided by recycling grass clippings. The clippings should be fine enough to disappear into the turf. Clippings should not lie in clumps killing the grass underneath. When this occurs, collect clippings for composting or mulching areas of the garden. Ohio State University Extension highly recommends recycling grass clippings back to the soil. The "Don't Bag It" program combines frequent mowing and no bagging with a low-to-moderate level of fertilizations. This program is an environmentally friendly approach to lawn care.
More important than mower type is the proper maintenance of the cutting blade(s). Mower blades should be sharpened regularly. The ragged leaf tips that result from a dull mower blade give a brownish appearance to the lawn. Regular maintenance of power mowers including cleaning the filters, changing oil and spark plugs, and maintenance of the body, extend the life of the lawn mower.
MYTH: Lawn clippings cause THATCH. Thatch forms a barrier to water and nutrient penetration the soil. Thatch occurs as a part of the natural regeneration of grass plants. Proper lawn maintenance keeps thatch at a minimal level. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn does not significantly contribute to thatch buildup. Grass clippings are more than 90% water. Thatch forms mostly from dead crowns and roots. MYTH: Mowing very low allows more time between mowings. Weather, season, and fertilizer applications affect how fast grass grows. Mowing low to get out of work really does the opposite. It allows weeds to invade the lawn. Mowing the lawn too low may stress the grass plants making them more susceptible to disease. Weeds and disease increase the gardener's workload. MYTH: Wet grass should never be cut. True. Wet grass will clump and be uneven when cut. However, during extended periods of rainy weather, the lawn may still require cutting. Raising the mowing height will make mowing easier and reduce clumping. |
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Introduction | Botany | Soils and Fertilizers | Entomology and Pest Management | Plant Pathology | Plant Propagation | Houseplants | Lawns | Herbaceous Ornamentals | Woody Ornamentals | Vegetables | Herbs | Fruit | Glossary |
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